The day has finally come, we now have cherry tomatoes, and even a few Roma's, popping out all over the place. We noticed the first starts early this week and new ones coming out every day. We did a nutrient change yesterday in the PowerGrower where the cherry tomatoes are growing. Significant difference - higher concentration of Canna Boost and addition of Canna PK 13/14. This nutrient shift is required, per Canna instructions, when first fruits start to bloom. We were low on water in the PowerGrower so the timing was perfect.
The Ebb and Gro system has performed very well since installation. The Grow 3 seedlings we transplanted from the AeroFlo36 (they had been in there only a few days) are keeping pace with the "like" plants from Grow 3 that stayed in the AeroFlo36. One difference noted was in the Basil. The AeroFlo36 seedling growth is beating the Ebb and Gro seedling hands down.
We took lumen measurements under the SuperNova LED this week. We noticed a significant difference in lumen (from the same distance) between the HID HPS and MH lights compared to the LED. Given the LED is only 270 watts, per the manufacturer it is supposed to put off as much light as a 1000 watt HID. Not in lumen - that is for sure. Not sure what the manufacturer means by their statements but clearly the lumen readings are significantly different. Regardless, the plants under the SuperNova are doing well, either because of a more beneficial light spectrum (more "usable" light) or some other magic we don't know of yet.
Showing posts with label MH. Show all posts
Showing posts with label MH. Show all posts
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
Monday, November 15, 2010
Grow Room Upgrades
Wow what a busy few days. With the coming addition of an Ebb and Flow system we decided to split some circuits, add some outlets, get rid of all the extension cords, and most importantly get our HID lights on 240 volts to reduce our power consumption. Both lights were on 120v circuits, drawing twice as many amps as they would at 240 volts.
We ran a new 4-wire 10 gauge cable from the circuit panel to the grow room on Friday. The cable supports a new 30 amp circuit in the panel and a Power Box system with four 240 volt circuits and two 120 volt circuits. The Power Box has a built in timer that replaces the little timers each light was plugged into before. The two 120 volt outlets on the Power Box can either be constant on, or controlled by the timer.
Power Box makes several models in 30, 50, and 60 amps. The 30 amp unit we purchased doesn't have all the features of the larger models but is the right size (with growth) for our room. One feature that would have been great on this unit would be a "delay on" for HID lights after power outages. Funny, in the new catalog that came with the box it was shipped in...."New for 2010" - a separate "delay on" box that you can attach. Didn't see that on their website, or in any of the on-line Hydroponic stores.
I can proudly say that now all the extension cords are gone and the Power Box is up and running our HID lights.
We ran a new 4-wire 10 gauge cable from the circuit panel to the grow room on Friday. The cable supports a new 30 amp circuit in the panel and a Power Box system with four 240 volt circuits and two 120 volt circuits. The Power Box has a built in timer that replaces the little timers each light was plugged into before. The two 120 volt outlets on the Power Box can either be constant on, or controlled by the timer.
Power Box makes several models in 30, 50, and 60 amps. The 30 amp unit we purchased doesn't have all the features of the larger models but is the right size (with growth) for our room. One feature that would have been great on this unit would be a "delay on" for HID lights after power outages. Funny, in the new catalog that came with the box it was shipped in...."New for 2010" - a separate "delay on" box that you can attach. Didn't see that on their website, or in any of the on-line Hydroponic stores.
I can proudly say that now all the extension cords are gone and the Power Box is up and running our HID lights.
Sunday, November 7, 2010
Grow Room Changes
We finished the nutrient swap today by draining the FloraKleen solution that ran last night in the PowerGrower and then adding the Aqua Flores, Rhizotonic, Cannazyme, and Boost solution. The Metal Halide bulb was changed to High Pressure Sodium yesterday, and as you can see in the video it definitely has a different color spectrum.
The grow room went through a major reconfiguration today. We removed a large workbench to make room for our next system. A new station was set up with a narrower work surface (not as deep as the workbench) to give us a small working area as well as seed germination and cloning space.
The grow room went through a major reconfiguration today. We removed a large workbench to make room for our next system. A new station was set up with a narrower work surface (not as deep as the workbench) to give us a small working area as well as seed germination and cloning space.
Saturday, November 6, 2010
Bulb Change
The PowerGrower plants are now receiving light from a High Pressure Sodium bulb (HPS) that we swapped out with the Metal Halide bulb. Our ballasts are the electronic/digital type that can support either type of bulb.
We are using the HPS bulb now as the plants (mainly the Cherry Toms) are in the Generative stage and require more red color in their light spectrum for the best flower and fruit growth.
We are using the HPS bulb now as the plants (mainly the Cherry Toms) are in the Generative stage and require more red color in their light spectrum for the best flower and fruit growth.
Friday, November 5, 2010
Equipment and Nutrient Change Tomorrow
Nutrients
We have seen the Generative (aka flowering) stage begin on our Cherry and Roma Tomatoes in the PowerGrower. Our nutrient solution in the PowerGrower is Canna Aqua Vega, Rhizotonic, and Cannazyme delivered at Canna's published rates. We will now switch to Canna's Aqua Flores, reduce the Rhizotonic concentration, keep the Cannazyme about the same, and add Boost. All of these products are available in different size containers (1 liter, 5 liter, etc). We will continue to follow dosing rates per Canna's literature.
Lesson learned - if you have two big systems like I do, and run successive grows back to back - get the big jugs of nutrients. You will also need one of those big syringes to get the nutrient out of the big jug (unless you like funnels and big measuring cups).
I have not experimented with other nutrient manufacturers' products, nor am I endorsing any product for any type of financial gain or consideration. All I can say is that this Canna stuff works extremely well for me while following their recommended dosing and while also using their nutrient additives (like Rhizotonic, Cannazyme, Boost, etc) to the base products of Aqua Vega or Aqua Flores.
Lighting
We will change the HID light bulb above the PowerGrower from Metal Halide (MH) to High Pressure Sodium (HPS). A metal halide bulb has a high concentration of blue light spectrum and is primarily used during the Vegetative stage. A high pressure sodium bulb has a high concentration of red light spectrum and is primarily used during the Generative stage. Either bulb will provide results for you. If you want the best results, use them during the identified stages, if you can, to improve your results. The MH bulb in the HID above the AeroFlo36 will remain since those Grow 2 plants remain in the Vegetative stage.
We have seen the Generative (aka flowering) stage begin on our Cherry and Roma Tomatoes in the PowerGrower. Our nutrient solution in the PowerGrower is Canna Aqua Vega, Rhizotonic, and Cannazyme delivered at Canna's published rates. We will now switch to Canna's Aqua Flores, reduce the Rhizotonic concentration, keep the Cannazyme about the same, and add Boost. All of these products are available in different size containers (1 liter, 5 liter, etc). We will continue to follow dosing rates per Canna's literature.
Lesson learned - if you have two big systems like I do, and run successive grows back to back - get the big jugs of nutrients. You will also need one of those big syringes to get the nutrient out of the big jug (unless you like funnels and big measuring cups).
I have not experimented with other nutrient manufacturers' products, nor am I endorsing any product for any type of financial gain or consideration. All I can say is that this Canna stuff works extremely well for me while following their recommended dosing and while also using their nutrient additives (like Rhizotonic, Cannazyme, Boost, etc) to the base products of Aqua Vega or Aqua Flores.
Lighting
We will change the HID light bulb above the PowerGrower from Metal Halide (MH) to High Pressure Sodium (HPS). A metal halide bulb has a high concentration of blue light spectrum and is primarily used during the Vegetative stage. A high pressure sodium bulb has a high concentration of red light spectrum and is primarily used during the Generative stage. Either bulb will provide results for you. If you want the best results, use them during the identified stages, if you can, to improve your results. The MH bulb in the HID above the AeroFlo36 will remain since those Grow 2 plants remain in the Vegetative stage.
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
Hydroponic Systems and Components
Systems and Components - Logic
Several systems and components have been installed in our grow room to provide our veggies and herbs an environment in which to provide the highest yields possible. Your comments in areas where we can improve (or question our logic) are always welcome. Many of these systems are generally thought of after the enthusiastic grower has plants and figures out how to manage the expansion of their growing environment. I put in all of these systems and controls so I could focus purely on the plants in the future without having to crawl all over the room to make things fit and work.
Hydroponic Systems
The grow room started with a General Hydroponics Aeroflo36, and eventually grew to include a General Hydroponics PowerGrower Water Farm to handle larger (taller, bushier, vine based) plants. The AeroFlo is a combination of aeroponic and hydroponic technologies combined. The PowerGrower is a drip based system with a master reservoir with reservoirs in each power grower module. Growco (4hydroponics.com) has complete manufacturer installation instructions for these systems in PDF format. This is one of the few web sites I found that does that - and it is great information for those that want to know more about the systems and how they are put together. Hats off to Growco ! We will add a cloning system when we get to mature plants to help increase our re-planting rates.
Lighting & Ballasts
I chose 1000 watt light bulbs due to the actual footprint of the systems they would cover with light. Each digital ballast can manage high pressure sodium (HPS) and metal halide (MH) light bulbs at watt ratings from 400-1000 watts. I used SolarMax bulbs at the recommendation of my local grow shop, Texas Hydroponics (texashydroponics.com) due to their reliability and warranty as well as for the types of plants I would be growing. They are currently using 120v / 20 amp circuits but I may be changing it to 240v / 20 amp circuits for lower power consumption. At the time I purchased these lighting systems, I did not have knowledge of the new LED lighting systems now in the market. I plan on an experiment with eggplant with a single PowerGrower module with a LED grow light (can't wait till Christmas comes).
Water Purification
We live in a rural area but have "county" water. The water out of the tap has approx 400 ppm of "stuff" in it, not to mention a slightly chlorinated taste. With a combined requirement of the hydroponic systems being about 75 gallons per nutrient water change, a "kitchen sink" R.O. system just wasn't going to do the job. In steps the Hydro Logic Merlin Garden Pro. It produces about 750 gallons a day (you need to get some barrels - check out www.globalindustrial) and the water is pre-filtered with a Hydro Logic Tall Blue de-chlorinator filter. Using the pre-filter removes the chlorine that would damage or reduce the life of the R.O. system filters.
For unattended functionality of the R.O. system, I installed two shut-off valves in the primary water barrel. The control water flow is managed by a Merlin Electronic Shut Off Kit which uses a solenoid valve, the second is a Merlin manual float valve. Water moves from a "T" connection in the main plumbing (you also can connect so a sink faucet) to the Tall Blue, then to the input side of the Merlin Garden Pro. When the water level in the primary barrel reaches its shut-off float point, the solenoid shuts the valve, and the water flow stops. If the electronic valve fails, the manual float kit cuts off the water flow (talk about belts and suspenders, but hey, better than a flood).
I installed a second barrel that I pump water into from the primary. I use the second barrel is to do final pH adjustments and mix nutrients solutions for the plants in the two systems. After I begin pumping the water into the second barrel, the float in the primary barrel drops, allowing more water to be processed through the R.O. system into the primary barrel. After pH and nutrients are mixed into the second barrel of water, I pump it into the AeroFlo36 and PowerGrower separately using a small utility pump. I use about 35 gallons to fill the AeroFlo36 and about the same for the PowerGrower. It is much easier to mix, then pump it into the systems vs pumping R.O. water and mixing nutrients in the grow systems.
CO2 / Temperature / Humidity Controllers
I had a small CO2 tank on hand so I chose to use it and a C.A.P. dual tank CO2 Regulator/Emitter. The C.A.P. CO2 PPM monitor controls the release of CO2 based on my set points entered into the PPM monitor. The CO2 is activated (on/off) by the CO2 side of the C.A.P. CO2-4e controller. The 4-e automatically turns off all exhaust fans/AC (our HVAC is controlled separately so we use the outlet for an additional circulation fan) to the room while CO2 is discharged. The exhaust systems are managed via temperature and humidity set points on the 4-e as well. When the exhaust systems activates due to high temperature (caused by lighting systems mainly) in the room, it deactivates any CO2 discharge that was taking place and delivers power to the in-line Cap Fan. Humidity control is managed by activating a plug for a DEHUMIDIFIER. I don't have an issue with to much humidity as it is managed through the HVAC system previously installed in the room (Daiken spit system). My issue is maintaining enough humidity. Enter the Nutramist fog machine and C.A.P. HUM-1 humidity controller. Will post more when they arrive this week and are installed.
All of this technology is a bit costly, but worthwhile for the person that has to work for a living and can't spend 3 hours a day in the grow room. Besides, our mission was to provide the best possible environment to produce the highest possible yields.
Since we moved the seedlings to the AeroFlo36 and activated the CO2, we are seeing almost 50% increase in growth every day on our seedlings. WOW !
Nutrients
Talk about a confusing selection of seemingly great products. We totally punted the decision on this one to the experts at the grow shop and selected the full Canna line of nutrients. So far we don't have much practical experience with these products but we are seeing fantastic results in the plants transferred to the AeroFlo36. More updates on this as we progress through the veg stage and into flowering.
pH / EC / TDS Monitoring
I selected the "all-in-one" Hana pH/EC/TDS (HI3M) meter as it was durable, extremely accurate, and did all tests with a single device. So far it has worked fabulously.
Several systems and components have been installed in our grow room to provide our veggies and herbs an environment in which to provide the highest yields possible. Your comments in areas where we can improve (or question our logic) are always welcome. Many of these systems are generally thought of after the enthusiastic grower has plants and figures out how to manage the expansion of their growing environment. I put in all of these systems and controls so I could focus purely on the plants in the future without having to crawl all over the room to make things fit and work.
Hydroponic Systems
The grow room started with a General Hydroponics Aeroflo36, and eventually grew to include a General Hydroponics PowerGrower Water Farm to handle larger (taller, bushier, vine based) plants. The AeroFlo is a combination of aeroponic and hydroponic technologies combined. The PowerGrower is a drip based system with a master reservoir with reservoirs in each power grower module. Growco (4hydroponics.com) has complete manufacturer installation instructions for these systems in PDF format. This is one of the few web sites I found that does that - and it is great information for those that want to know more about the systems and how they are put together. Hats off to Growco ! We will add a cloning system when we get to mature plants to help increase our re-planting rates.
Lighting & Ballasts
I chose 1000 watt light bulbs due to the actual footprint of the systems they would cover with light. Each digital ballast can manage high pressure sodium (HPS) and metal halide (MH) light bulbs at watt ratings from 400-1000 watts. I used SolarMax bulbs at the recommendation of my local grow shop, Texas Hydroponics (texashydroponics.com) due to their reliability and warranty as well as for the types of plants I would be growing. They are currently using 120v / 20 amp circuits but I may be changing it to 240v / 20 amp circuits for lower power consumption. At the time I purchased these lighting systems, I did not have knowledge of the new LED lighting systems now in the market. I plan on an experiment with eggplant with a single PowerGrower module with a LED grow light (can't wait till Christmas comes).
Water Purification
We live in a rural area but have "county" water. The water out of the tap has approx 400 ppm of "stuff" in it, not to mention a slightly chlorinated taste. With a combined requirement of the hydroponic systems being about 75 gallons per nutrient water change, a "kitchen sink" R.O. system just wasn't going to do the job. In steps the Hydro Logic Merlin Garden Pro. It produces about 750 gallons a day (you need to get some barrels - check out www.globalindustrial) and the water is pre-filtered with a Hydro Logic Tall Blue de-chlorinator filter. Using the pre-filter removes the chlorine that would damage or reduce the life of the R.O. system filters.
For unattended functionality of the R.O. system, I installed two shut-off valves in the primary water barrel. The control water flow is managed by a Merlin Electronic Shut Off Kit which uses a solenoid valve, the second is a Merlin manual float valve. Water moves from a "T" connection in the main plumbing (you also can connect so a sink faucet) to the Tall Blue, then to the input side of the Merlin Garden Pro. When the water level in the primary barrel reaches its shut-off float point, the solenoid shuts the valve, and the water flow stops. If the electronic valve fails, the manual float kit cuts off the water flow (talk about belts and suspenders, but hey, better than a flood).
I installed a second barrel that I pump water into from the primary. I use the second barrel is to do final pH adjustments and mix nutrients solutions for the plants in the two systems. After I begin pumping the water into the second barrel, the float in the primary barrel drops, allowing more water to be processed through the R.O. system into the primary barrel. After pH and nutrients are mixed into the second barrel of water, I pump it into the AeroFlo36 and PowerGrower separately using a small utility pump. I use about 35 gallons to fill the AeroFlo36 and about the same for the PowerGrower. It is much easier to mix, then pump it into the systems vs pumping R.O. water and mixing nutrients in the grow systems.
CO2 / Temperature / Humidity Controllers
I had a small CO2 tank on hand so I chose to use it and a C.A.P. dual tank CO2 Regulator/Emitter. The C.A.P. CO2 PPM monitor controls the release of CO2 based on my set points entered into the PPM monitor. The CO2 is activated (on/off) by the CO2 side of the C.A.P. CO2-4e controller. The 4-e automatically turns off all exhaust fans/AC (our HVAC is controlled separately so we use the outlet for an additional circulation fan) to the room while CO2 is discharged. The exhaust systems are managed via temperature and humidity set points on the 4-e as well. When the exhaust systems activates due to high temperature (caused by lighting systems mainly) in the room, it deactivates any CO2 discharge that was taking place and delivers power to the in-line Cap Fan. Humidity control is managed by activating a plug for a DEHUMIDIFIER. I don't have an issue with to much humidity as it is managed through the HVAC system previously installed in the room (Daiken spit system). My issue is maintaining enough humidity. Enter the Nutramist fog machine and C.A.P. HUM-1 humidity controller. Will post more when they arrive this week and are installed.
All of this technology is a bit costly, but worthwhile for the person that has to work for a living and can't spend 3 hours a day in the grow room. Besides, our mission was to provide the best possible environment to produce the highest possible yields.
Since we moved the seedlings to the AeroFlo36 and activated the CO2, we are seeing almost 50% increase in growth every day on our seedlings. WOW !
Nutrients
Talk about a confusing selection of seemingly great products. We totally punted the decision on this one to the experts at the grow shop and selected the full Canna line of nutrients. So far we don't have much practical experience with these products but we are seeing fantastic results in the plants transferred to the AeroFlo36. More updates on this as we progress through the veg stage and into flowering.
pH / EC / TDS Monitoring
I selected the "all-in-one" Hana pH/EC/TDS (HI3M) meter as it was durable, extremely accurate, and did all tests with a single device. So far it has worked fabulously.
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